Berwick St. James to Poole – 92.5 kms

Thursday July 31, 2014

We had a good nights sleep in our tent, unfortunately the condensation problem has not been fixed and we are still getting dripped on in the mornings.  Next rest day we will get some Nik Wax waterproofing and soak the inside of the tent.

We left the campsite early at 8:15, the earliest we have been on the road for a while, the sun was out and it felt good to be on the bikes.  Todays route was rolling hills, although it felt very much downhill.  The uphills were followed by great swooping downhills.  The first road we took was a fairly quiet B Road but we had to join the A338 which was horrendous.  The car drivers in England do not give us much room and are very impatient.  We found a C road to follow for a while and in Fordinbridge we found the B3078 to Wimborne Minster which was a lovely ride, and then back on the A349  to Poole.

\"Old

We headed straight for the ferry port which was really well signed, although a very convoluted way of getting to it.  We bought our tickets for tomorrow’s crossing and headed back into Poole to the Tourist Information to find accommodation for tonight.

We were told about a campsite 3 miles (5kms) outside of Poole it was advertised from 7.50.  Please note the “from”.  When we got to the campsite which was 7.5 kms outside of Poole we were told the fee was 25.00 pounds.  That is 7.50 each and 10.00 for the pitch if we wanted power that would be an extra 6.00.  $50.00 to park our little tent, crazy.  Last nights campsite with kitchen and all of its facilities was only 14.oo pound – does not make any sense to me at all.

I was so mad at the “false” advertising I said no we wouldn’t pay it.  We cycled back into the Tourist Information office – which then made our total mileage for the day to 92.5 kms.  We booked into a hotel that charged 25 pound per person.  I know that sounds as if I was cutting my nose of to spite my face, but at least we are only 15 minutes from the ferry, we have a good hot shower and a bed.

\"Old

A Registry Office in England is used for weddings.  This old building was the registry office in Poole, the stairs make a great photo opportunity for the wedding party.

\"Registry

We have to get back on budget in France which may mean we will be wild camping in some areas.

Sherston to Berwick St. James – 77.41kms

Wednesday July 30, 2014

Not such an early start this morning although we were up early. John was working today so we got up to say our goodbyes to him. We had a good breakfast and loaded the bikes.  We then got around to saying goodbye to Joy.  It was tough, we had such a good day together yesterday, I didn’t want to leave her.  But, we gave each other big hugs and said our farewells. (Check back on Sherston\’s page to see the photo of the fringe).

We had a great cycling day to day.  The weather was hot (25 degrees) and sunny.   We stopped in Devizes to take photos of the locks – the ‘rise’ from the bottom of the lock to the top of the 29 locks  is 237 feet in 2 miles (72 m in 3.2 km) or a 1 in 44 gradient. Renting steel narrow boats for a vacation is another great way of seeing England.  Very slow and relaxing, apart from when you have to go through locks. You also tend to go from pub to pub, mooring up at lunchtime and then again in the evening next to a pub.

\"Devizes

We were going to stop in Devizes for lunch, but I missed the supermarket turn and before I knew it we were heading out of Town.  We carried on to the next Town that had a convenience store.  As we were heading through the village, military aircraft were flying noisily across the sky.  Ralf looked at the map and mentioned that we were close to Salisbury Plain.  My military historian couldn’t recall why he knew of Salisbury Plain.  I told him that it was used for military manouvres.  Probably why the aircraft were flying around.

Shortly after we noticed our first road sign warning us of tanks crossing, I pointed to Ralf the red flags the ranges were being used.  We didn’t hear any tank fire or see any tanks.

\"Tank

This road side sign told us about the four highwaymen who attacked and robbed Mr. Dean.  They were transported (to Australia) for their crimes, I wonder if their families are still there and enjoying life.

\"Warning

We then headed to Stonehenge, I remembered there was a road north of Stonehenge, that we would be able to see the monument without having to pay to go through the visitor centre.  Unfortunately English Heritage, knew about this road as well and have used it for their new visitors centre.

\"Stonehenge\"

Instead of a free view, you pay 15 pounds per person.  We cycled along the road and then took a dirt lane and still saw the monument.  We talked to a family from India who were very interested in our trip.  They wanted to take our photos, we asked them to take photos for us as we don\’t often get photos of the two of us together.

\"Family

We then took a very busy road, to our campsite.  The campsite is lovely – a fully equipped camp kitchen (first one since NZ/Australia), good showers, clean toilets and very friendly staff and fellow campers.  We met a fella who has also sold everything and wants to start a new life in Europe.  Although they bought a camper van and plan to buy a gite in France.

We decided to walk to the pub for dinner.  Ralf had forgotten to bring his camera but took these photos on his phone instead.

\"Cottage

Mia Farrow look?

\"Desperately

 

 

 

Sherston

Tuesday July 29, 2014

Lessons to live by:

  • Do not allow your sister to cut your fringe (bangs).
  • Do not allow your sister to encourage you to cut your own fringe.
  • Do not allow your sister to encourage your husband to cut your fringe.
  • Do not use kitchen scissor to cut your fringe.
  • Regardless of how bad your hair looks or how badly your fringe is driving you crazy, do not cut it yourself.

Thank goodness I wear a helmet all day, and my hair grows quickly.

Joy came home from the hospital yesterday after her last session of chemotherapy.  The next plan is for her to build up her strength and they will operate mid-September.  Things are finally looking up for her.  We spent a couple of hours chatting to her last night. We decided to ask if we could spend another day here, so that I could spend some time with Joy today.

Joy is feeling good today after her chemo, but I asked her to go to bed for a mid-afternoon nap.  We had a good chat this morning and we will have a good chat tonight before we all have an early night.  It is good to see her looking well and she has even put on some weight, not a lot, but some.

\"Joy,

Joy supervised Ralf and I making a paella today.  I assisted in the prep and Ralf did the cooking.  It tasted lovely and we had a lovely meal together.  Good times spent together.

We will set off early tomorrow morning.

Sherston

Saturday, Sunday and Monday July 26  – 28, 2014

Three rest days at Joy and John’s.  A busy time but rather boring to read about.  Cleaning the tent, fly and panniers.  Resealing the seams on the tent and waterproofing everything we can.

Ralf had cracked a filling so was able to get it fixed while we were here as well.

Joy came home from the hospital late Monday afternoon.  I made dinner for everyone and we had an early night.

Repacked and ready to carry on.

 

Bath to Sherston 36.26 kms (Cycling)

Friday July 24, 2014

Bridgwater to Bath (Driving)

After a quick breakfast and coffee we headed to the bike shop.  SJS Cycles build touring bikes and are well renowned in England.  It took them about an hour to switch Ralf’s wheels and put new tires etc on them.  He now has sealed bearings and wheels that are exactly the same as mine, but bigger 700cc’s.

We drove to Bath following the A362 it was a direct route, rather than following the M5 and down into Bath.  It was a typical scenic route, narrow roads and through a lot of small villages, it took us about an hour longer to get to Bath than if we had followed the SatNav directions.  Although the SatNav gave us some very funny directions for example “Stay on this road …. for a long time”.

We drove into Bath to get some Techwash and tent waterproofing.  While we are staying at Joy and John’s we will clean everything and reproof it all ready for the next leg of the Grand Adventure – Europe.

After we handed the vehicle back we cycled up to the hospital to see Joy.  Bath is a beautiful City in a valley, which means that have every road is uphill.  The hill to the hospital was brutal, turned a corner and kicked up to 12%.  We visited with Joy for about half an hour then headed out to their house in Sherston a small village in Wiltshire.

Joy was waiting to have the stent replaced, she had not eaten since 6:00 the previous evening and was hungry and thirsty.  She told us we have hill to climb to get to their house.  We had two more big hills 18% and 14%, (walked them) and then rolling hills.  About 10 kms away from their house the clouds rolled in and it started to rain, a heavy shower but by the time we got to the village we were dry.  John informed us that there was a rail trail we could have taken which would have only had us negotiating one hill.

John made us pasta for dinner and we had an early night.

Rosslare to Bridgwater

Thursday July 24, 2014

A short bike ride down the hill to the ferry and a short wait and we were on the ferry heading for Wales.

\"Sunrise

A really smooth ferry crossing, Ralf took photos while I prepared the photos for the blog.

\"Leaving

We could have walked to Wales.

\"Walk

When the ferry docked, we were ready to follow the motor bikes of the ship, when one of the dock-workers called us over.  He directed us to a side door, and we joined the foot passengers of the ship.  Much quicker and safer than driving of the ship with the cars and motorbikes.

Arriving in England we needed some English pounds, but there was no ATM.  We couldn’t buy train tickets and we were hoping that we could take the bikes on the train without any problems.  Both of us were horrified when a family of four showed up with their touring bikes loaded and a BOB trailer.  Fortunately for us they were going on the ferry to Ireland.  When the train arrived we were the only two bikes and we removed the panniers and secured them in the bike area.

We had arranged to pick up a van in Cardiff at 4:00 pm, the train had to be rerouted and was going to be late, only by half an hour which actually turned out to be 45 minutes.  We quickly found the car hire place and were on our way to Bridgwater without incident.

We had stayed in Bridgwater when we cycled LeJog.  We knew where there was a place where we could park the van and sleep in the van it was a quiet and secluded place.  We set up our sleeping mats in the van and slept soundly (or at least I did).  Ralf slept with one eye open.

 

Wexford to Rosslare – 23.52 kms

Wednesday July 23, 2014

Up early as planned.  By 5:30 am we were washed, the tent was packed, the bikes loaded and we were ready to eat our breakfast in the camp kitchen and dining room.  Oh dear god no – the door was locked, our breakfast and more importantly our four water bottles were locked away.  The warden would not be on duty until 9:00!!  There was nothing we could do about it other than leaving the bottles or unpacking the tent and going back to sleep.  6:15 the tent was up and 6:30 we were asleep. Best laid plans do not always work out.

\"Sunrise\"

We woke up again at 9:00, with the sun on the tent and started our day again.  After a leisurely breakfast, we decided to head out to Rosslare Harbour pick up the tickets for the ferry tomorrow and cycle to the campsite closer to Rosslare Harbour.  We packed away the tent again, reloaded the bikes and headed out to Rosslare Harbour at 10:30 am.  We followed the N52 all the way to the Harbour which was fairly busy but we had a shoulder all the way, nice cycling.  We bought the tickets for the ferry and then prepared to cycle out of Town.  Ralf suggested we stay in one of the hotels near the ferry terminal.  I went into the two but the prices were over 80 EUs, we decided against it.  However, as we passed a smaller hotel we noticed they were offering rooms for 59 EUs.  We could afford that, they had rooms and a place to store our bikes overnight.  We settled in quickly, showered and walked over to the small shopping centre to buy lunch and source our evening meal.  We ate lunch overlooking the coast and then went for a walk through Rosslare Harbour Village.  A Town that has seen better days.  Two large hotels were closed one that had 400 rooms and other businesses have left.  The only employment in the Town is at the port or in the small shops and hotels that are still open, most people work in Wexford – 23kms away.

\"Hotel

As we made our way back to the hotel we noticed a memorial park and the YHA.  The YHA has been closed for a number of years, at least since the 1980s.

\"Closed

We then discovered the jewel in the area, a secret garden.

\"Kirwans

We met Kirwan, an 82 year old man who planted this garden 10 yards at a time.  The land belonged to the railway and they had left it as a dump site.

\"Garden

He mentioned that there were rats coming into the area and that is why he created the garden.

\"Garden

He started by \’taking\’ 10 yards and just carried on the garden is now about 6 acres and the railway send in helpers to help him maintain what he has created.

\"Garden

\"OLYMPUS

Rathdrum to Wexford – 83.84 kms

Tuesday July 22, 2014

An early start and a great ride.  We wanted to stop in Avoca, which is where they filmed Ballykissangel, a BBC TV program that we enjoyed watching and actually bought the DVD series.

\"General

Fitzgerald’s the pub is still there but looking very tired. I guess there aren’t as many tourists visiting the area now as the TV series has been off the air for about 10 years.

\"Fitzgerald\'s\"

The area around Avoca was primarily copper mining, we saw an old tower and chimney.

\"Copper

After Avoca we cycled on towards Wexford.

The Garmin and Google gave us one distance to Wexford, the road signs gave us another – the road signs gave us 10 extra kilometres.  After lunch the road signs, garmin and google maps all matched!  Very strange.

The route today was undulating, which means to this cyclist that there wasn’t any major hills, I only once needed to go into the granny gears and the rest of the time mid-range up and down.  A good ride.

\"River

A road cyclist passed us, and for some unknown reason only known to Ralf he decided to take off and chase the poor guy down.  It was a slight up hill, Ralf gave him a 15 metre head start and before the top of the hill he was on his wheel and then waited for me to catch up.  I caught up with him and as I passed Ralf he said “easy peasy!!”  He had the biggest grin on his face.

There wasn’t much to see today, although we did see a lovely thatched cottage and an old mill.

\"Garrylough

 

\"Thatched

We arrived in Wexford at 3:15 pm, I was tired and wanted to stop.  Ralf wanted to carry on to Rosslare where the harbor is, but the campsite was another 12 kms past Rosslare.  Either way we would have to cycle tomorrow to the ferry terminal.  The ladies at the Information Centre were really nice and helpful.  They called the campsite to see if there were vacancies, and also called the ferry terminal to check we can get on tomorrow, we can.  The ferry leaves at 9:00 we need to be at the terminal for 8:00 which means leaving the campsite at 6:15.  A really early start for us.

The campsite is very nice and well equipped.  We do have to pay extra for showers, although the warden said we could go to the Community swimming pool (on-site) and shower for free.  When we got there the young girl on reception said we had to pay, Ralf explained what the campsite warden had told us we were allowed in for free – we got free showers.  The camp site is clean and well equipped, it actually has a campers kitchen with a stove, fridge and freezer and kettles, a place to eat indoors, free wi-fi this is the first time that a campsite has all these facilities in the UK and Ireland. For 16 EUs it is well worth staying here.  We are pitched near the shoreline, it is very peaceful.  At 9:30 we heard the evening ferry leaving for Wales – a lonely ship’s horn sounding over the bay.

\"Bay

Dublin to Rathdrum – 61.87 kms

Monday July 21, 2014

We were up early had a good breakfast and on the road at 8:15.  It was a tough ride today.  It started with a 15 km ride negotiating city traffic to get out of Dublin.  Fortunately, Dublin has lots of cycle lanes.  We had to work our way across the city from east to west and then up through the Wicklow Mountains.  Once we had cleared the city we started to climb almost immediately.  It wasn’t too bad to start with and then it got progressively worse.  On one road a lady stopped and suggested we turn around and take another road as it wasn’t as steep.  We decided to press on but the hill got really steep (16%) and we were off and pushing the bikes.  Up and down we went for the next 10 kms and we hadn’t really got into the Mountains yet.  At one intersection we chatted to another lady motorist who told us the next section was downhill for a while it was known locally as Devil’s Elbow and then it kicked up again and we would have another steep climb similar to the 16% hill we had already climbed.

\"Wicklow

We decided to take the easier route and headed towards Enniskerry.  Enniskerry was a pretty town, where we were going to have some lunch, but realized we had forgotten to go to the bank in Dublin and only had 3 EUs.  We shared a sandwich and then carried on to the next town where there was supposed to be an ATM.  We eventually found an ATM in Roundwood.  We bought some water and another sandwich.

\"Enniskerry, \"Johnnie

We were looking at the map we had the choice of two routes from Roundwood to Rathdrum.  I asked a nice fella which would be the better route, meaning the less hillier route. He said they were both about the same but the R route was busy with buses, the L route was quieter.  We took the L route, within the first 2 ks we met two logging trucks, but after that it was quieter and a lovely route.

We came into Rathdrum and found the campsite straight away.  It is a very busy family site with lots of things to do for the kids.  It is very expensive 24 EUs for a bit of grass, everything else you pay for, even the showers and power are extra.  Why people accept these appalling services is beyond us.  Now we are surrounded by the smell of campfires, and burnt sausages and tired screaming toddlers.

\"Campground

Tomorrow we should be in Rosslare and plan to take the ferry back to the UK on Wednesday.  Hopefully we can get on a ferry as easily as we did coming from Troon to Larne.

Dublin Rest Day

Sunday July 20, 2014

After breakfast we headed out to downtown Dublin, which is less than 5 minutes walk from Sarah and Baptiste’s apartment.  After crossing over the River Liffey we passed Trinity College and Temple Bar. There appeared to be a church on every corner.  We passed them all and headed down to the Guinness Storehouse.

\"Trinity

On our route we noticed an entrance way – we went through it and discovered Dublin Castle.

\"Dublin

Dublin has a great network of cycle routes and as in most large cities now, their are rental bikes.  We have noticed that most of these rental bikes are for residents and not for tourists.  For a tourist to \’rent\’ one I think you have to name your children after the City you are in.  The payment system is designed in such a way to confuse you so that you get a taxi instead or walk, as we have done throughout the City\’s that have these bikes.

\"Rental

Of course you can always transport your kids in a wheelbarrow.

\"Wheel

The Guinness brewery is located on James Street, Dublin and the visitors centre is huge.

\"Guinness

We spent about two hours looking at all the exhibits, including the original lease that Arthur Guinness signed for the brewery on James Street.  A 9,000 year lease, now there is optimism for you.  The visitors centre is shaped like a Guinness glass and if filled with Guinness would hold 14.3 million pints of Guinness.  The visitors centre was quite expensive, 18 EU each, but it was very interesting and a lot of fun – we got a certificate for pulling the perfect pint.  Which we were then allowed to drink.  You receive a pint of Guinness included in your entrance fee anyway so this was our complementary Guinness.

\"Perfect

After the storehouse we walked along the promenade alongside the river for a while and then into the commercial area of Dublin.  It was very busy for a Sunday.

\"Cafe

In 1994 to 1997 what was known as the Celtic Tiger was born.  Ireland\’s economy grew, people were moving there in great numbers and employment grew.  Ireland experienced what can only be described as a jobs miracle; investment in education increased the overall skills profile of the workforce, active state policies encouraged productive investment and balanced fiscal policies avoided the over-heating of the economy.

Then in 2008 the bust happened, Ireland is still recovering from this global event.

The collapse, when it came, was quick and brutal.  The Irish banking system having overlent wildly for overinflated property deals,  had to be rescued by the taxpayer.
All over the country there are ghost villages, schemes of new houses, half occupied or half finished.   Unemployment is high, although we did see recovery and optimism.  As in most major City\’s (Edinbugh and Dublin) we saw beggars and homeless people.

\"Homeless

The millenium spire was evidence of the boom times.  Do not refer to it as the needle the Dubliners do not like that.

\"Millenium

Today we were providing dessert at our warmshowers host, strawberries and cream – lovely.  Baptiste made a lovely lasagna for dinner with an Italian salad of mozzarella and tomatoes.

We played a board game with them after dinner, which was a lot of fun.  It appeared to be a very complicated game to start of with, but it was very easy to play once you got going.  However, I came last – Ralf came second.

It was a late night, but we have to be up early tomorrow as both Sarah and Baptiste leave for work around 8:30.  We are also planning on a hilly ride through the Wicklow mountains so we need to be up and cycling early.