Monday 22 September 2025

What a difference a day makes. After yesterday’s nightmare we decided to shorten the distance until we were acclimatized to the heat and humidity and riding heavy touring bikes again.  We were supposed to have got to Odawara yesterday and have the time to visit the castle. Obviously, that didn’t happen. Today we decided to cycle as far as Odawara, check out the castle have some lunch and then continue to Atami. A very manageable 52.97 kms.

It was a lovely ride with tail winds and cooler temperatures. I think the highest the temperature got today was 24 degrees.

Just after leaving Chigaski and crossing a bridge we spotted Mount Fuji.

After about 20 kms of riding we finally joined the Pacific Coast Route.

 Pacific Coast sign and Tsunami sign

Several times today we passed signs that indicated that we were in a Tsunami zone. Basically, if a Tsunami hit that area we would be under water.

The Ride with GPS route was pretty good but tried to direct us away from cycle paths that might be in a Tsunami zone. We ignored these redirections and followed the Pacific Coast Route signs even when they directed us down a steep set of stairs and onto a cycle path that paralleled the highway for about 5kms.

Steps and pathway

We arrived at the castle at 11:45, lots of time to see the castle and have a comfortable 25 kms ride to finish the day.

The castle was built in 1417.There were many wars and sieges from 1590 to 1632 and the transfer of power from the Omori family to the Tokugawa Hidetada Shogunate. In 1633 the castle was severely damaged in an earthquake.  A lot of the castles built at this time were built from wood, and many were damaged due to earthquakes and fires. This castle has been rebuilt several times: 1633, 1703,1853, and 1923 all damages were due to earthquakes.  From 1870 through to 1927 several of the structures and surrounding areas were sold.

As we cycled up to the main castle, they were undertaking some excavations. However, a lot of the original property that would have included parts of the town and residences for the tradespeople and the Samurai warriors who protected the castle were no longer part of the property.

The castle tower was rebuilt in 1960, the Tokiwaga Gate was restored in 1971, the Akagane Gate was restored in 1997, and the Umasdashi Gate was restored in 2009.  The tower/castle is now a museum with various exhibits on each floor. It was nice to see a lot of the information signs in English and there were pamphlets in 4 different languages available.

Castle Tower and Main Gate

View of the Moats

Leading up to the castle and the excavation work seen from the top of the castle

There were a few climbs towards the end of the ride. I managed all of them apart from the last one to the hotel, it was an unexpected hill. It was really lovely ride today.

When we got to the hotel, things went pear-shaped. We usually take our bikes into our hotel room or are allowed to leave the bikes in the lobby. Not this time the man on reception rushed out and told us in no uncertain terms that bikes were not allowed. I had mentioned during the booking that we were arriving by bike. “No bikes”. I asked where we could store them. No bikes in the hotel. When I asked him again what to do the with the bikes he said No English. He was very rude.  The lady at reception came out to try and smooth things out. Do you have bags for the bikes? Yes, but we must remove the panniers, remove the front wheel, fold the bikes then put them into the bags. No, she said, you don’t have to fold the bikes just put them in the bag. It was getting ridiculous.

While we were unloading the bikes and preparing to put them into the bags, the man came out again and told us not to leave the bikes where we had parked them. We told him that we were putting them into the bags. It was so frustrating. If the hotel was carpeted, I could understand it, but it was cement floors, even in the rooms. We got the bikes into the bags and took them up to the room. Both of us were furious.

To cap it all the restaurant we had chosen was full and not taking any more customers!  Hopefully tomorrow will improve.

Sunday 21 September 2025

This turned out to be a disaster of a first day riding in Japan. We didn’t make it to Odawara (72 kms).

We had a good breakfast at the hotel and then repacked our panniers and loaded the bikes. I had managed to create a ride with GPS course to Odawara for us to follow. We had to try and connect with the East Coast Pacific Cycle route and then we will follow that route all the way to Osaka and towards Hiroshima.

We were late leaving Kawasaki, (10:00 a.m.) and it was already over 25 degrees. We headed out of Kawasaki and it seemed like forever to get out of the City, the next City (Yokohama) seemed to merge with Kawasaki and then the next city merged with that city. It was not a pretty route, and we didn’t take many pictures.

Eventually we started climbing and I was so disappointed with myself. I had been training all summer, I felt fit and strong. However, I forgot Marco (the new folding touring bike) was much heavier than my new Trek and I was carrying about 20lb of weight in my panniers. I was also about 10lbs lighter than last year’s ride in Taiwan.

After only 25 kms I was struggling to get up the hills. Some of the hills were steep – 14%. The heat was getting to me. I have never had leg cramps while cycling and today my right calf began to cramp. On one hill. Ralf pushed his bike to the top and then came down and pushed mine. I lay down on the ground, I was struggling.

At 25 kms, I told Ralf I didn’t think I was going to be able to do another 45 kms. We had to revise the route, It was over 35 degrees. At 35 kms as we were arriving in the City of Chigasaki I told Ralf I was done, both of my legs were cramping and I thought I was suffering from heat stroke. Ralf found a hotel in Chigasaki, and we carried on to the hotel. As soon as we got in Ralf cancelled the hotel in Odawara, fortunately no charge to cancel.

The route was not very pretty and so we didn’t take many photos. Nicest part was along a bike path and fields (4.5 kms)

The hotel was lovely, and the staff were really nice. We went out for a lovely meal at an Indian restaurant. A good end to a bad day.

Saturday 20 September 2025

Although we had allowed ourselves two full days to recover from our flight, I think we could have started cycling today. We had booked the hotel for three nights and we had to make good use of the time. I had no idea what we were going to do today until I did a bit of research and found a Buddhist temple and gardens nearby. I suggested to Ralf that we could walk the 3+ kms to the temple and take the train back to the Central Rail Station which is only a 5-minute walk from our hotel.

After breakfast and to start our morning, we did a little load of laundry so that everything is clean when we start riding tomorrow. The hotel has washing machines for guests to use, it was cheap and convenient.

The population of Kawasaki is 1,538,262 people (2020), it is the 8^th most populated city in Japan. Kawasaki was a very industrial City with major manufacturers such as Hitachi, Kawasaki and steel manufacturers. Although it still has a lot of industry near the port area it has reinvented itself and has art galleries and a symphony.

As we walked towards the area of the Daishi Temple and gardens, I found it really interesting to see the different neighbourhoods and the density of the areas. This three-level parking structure was near a small apartment block.

They also used the same idea for bike storage.

There were a quite a few cyclists, most of them older people although there were a few younger ones on commuter bikes. Moms used these bikes to transport their children, baby in the front, toddler or young child in the back, mom in the middle and a basket on the front to carry the groceries. Who needs a car when you have this type of transportation to get around?

Within the area of the Buddhist temple is Daishi Park and Gardens. We spent about an hour wandering through the gardens, it was very peaceful.

Ralf called to me to tell me he had a hitch-hiker.

Kawasaki Daishi was founded in 1128 and is the headquarters of the Chizan School of Shingon Buddhism.  The temple’s original structures were destroyed during the war, and its current buildings are modern reconstructions of Heian Period architecture. The main hall (Dai-Hondo), constructed of steel and concrete, was built in 1958 and houses a statue of Kobo Daishi, the founder of Japanese Shingon Buddhism. Several of the temple’s other large structures, such as the main Dai-Sanmon Gate and an octagonal, five story pagoda, were built in the 1970s and 80s to commemorate various anniversaries.

The street leading away from the temple had a lot of knick knack shops. Mostly food related with candies being the most popular store. As you came into the street there was a rhythmic banging. The candy makers used their chopping knives to bang on their table to attract attention, they then took the warm candy mixture and cut it into small cubes.

The most interesting store was a chop-stick store. I know that sounds ridiculous, but they had such a variety of chop sticks and sizes. Who knew that chop sticks came in different sizes? There was even a measure so that you could get the right size. At the end of this trip, we will be buying chop sticks as our souvenir.

We walked about 5 kms to the temple and decided to take the train back to the Central Station. Very adventurous, no English instructions on how to buy tickets. The only instructions were to go to station staff. We managed to get two tickets and instructions as to which platform to wait for the train. We got on the next train that arrived and hoped it would take us to the Central Station. Fortunately, the announcements on the train were in English and the last stop was the Central Station.

Tomorrow, we head out on our bicycles to Hakone area.

Friday 18 September 2025

I have not missed a day of posting, we lost half a day due to the time difference. We left Canada on Wednesday afternoon and arrived in Tokyo on Thursday afternoon.

After a good night’s sleep, we were awake and ready to go at about 8:00. We had a few things to do today: put bikes back together, check on keeping the boxes at the hotel, and finding the rules about taking the bikes on the train when we return from Hiroshima.

After breakfast in the restaurant at the hotel, we (o.k. Ralf) proceeded to put the bikes back together. It only took him a few hours and we were ready for lunch. Unfortunately, during the packing we (again Ralf) forgot to put a bike pump into the bag.  We discussed whether we needed one as we could pop into a bike shop to pump the tires back up to the correct pressure. However, if we get a flat on the road, we will need a pump. We found a bike shop only 80 metres from our hotel.  OMG I think we died and went to heaven. What a shop – two floors the first floor had the bikes, everything from a Brompton to a Pinarello and everything in between, the second floor had every bike tool and bike accessory you could ever want and some you really don’t need. Awesome bike store. We did buy a pump.

We asked at the reception of the hotel if they would save the bike boxes for us, and we would stay here on our return. Unfortunately, they said they couldn’t keep the boxes, so we trashed them. We will look at a hotel in Tokyo for our return to Tokyo at the end of October. Hopefully we can find a hotel with airport services.

We wandered over to the train station and found out we could bring our bikes on the train so long as they are in a bag, and we will need to book the bikes in advance. As soon as we get into Hiroshima, we will book the train tickets and the bikes. Ralf will get to ride on the Shinkansen (bullet train).

View from Lazona Kawasaki Plaza near the train station

A successful day, finishing with a drink on the rooftop terrace.

Rooftop terrace

Wednesday 17 September 2025

Finally, after months of planning we are on our way to Japan.

Our house-sitter, Rob, arrived on Tuesday, he seems to be very nice. Callie greeted him in her usually way, flipping onto her back so that he could rub her belly, which he dutifully complied with, another servant for Queen Callie.

Today we were up at 4:00 a.m. to be picked up by Howard’s Taxi Service to take us to Ottawa Airport.  The taxi arrived promptly at 5:30 and with the bikes and bag in the van we headed north.

We always give ourselves plenty of time at the airport, when we are travelling with bikes. Although, Air Canada indicated a two-hour check-in, we arrived three hours prior to departure.  Most of you will think I am crazy arriving so early, however, you never know what to expect when you have to deal with the over-sized bike boxes.

Of course, this time it went so smoothly we were waiting for 2.5 hours at the airport. I couldn’t believe how quickly and easily it went. There was a fella at oversized check-in counter greeted us with a Hello Bonjour, he asked all the usual questions: where are you going, are these bicycles, any batteries, any compressed gas etc. After weighing the bikes, he sent the blue bag (panniers etc.) through the regular channel and told us to go to the over-sized baggage handler who was less than 50 metres away.  Ralf is supposed to have free baggage allowance as retired military, but we did have to pay the “special handling cost” of $50.00 per bike. He told us that everything would go to Tokyo Haneda Airport, and we would not have to re-check our bikes/bags at Toronto.

The cheerful man at the x-ray machine asked us to open the boxes and waved his magic wand over them. He lifted them through the x-ray machine, and we were done and ready to go through security and passport control. It took all of 20 minutes from arriving at the airport to saying goodbye to the bikes.

Bye-bye bikes hope to see you in Tokyo

We had a coffee and then headed through passport control and security. Again, we were through in record time. I had everything electrical in my front pannier/back-pack (laptop, iPad, bike computer, every connector you could possibly think of you could ever use. I was convinced that they would pull me aside as I had enough wires etc. in that bag. The machine was very hi-tech, it scanned the bag, then if there was anything that looked suspicious it moved it from the conveyor to the side and was searched by hand by security personnel. Mine was sent straight down the conveyor to my waiting arms. No problem with Ralf’s handlebar bag which had two cameras and more batteries and connectors!!

Then we waited until our flight was called for boarding.

Birchbark Canoe Display at Ottawa Airport

After a very short flight to Toronto, we hiked the Toronto Pearson Trail. Although we flew into Terminal 1, and we were flying out of Terminal 1 we managed to get our steps in for the day walking from the arrival gate to the departure gate. Our layover at Pearson was just over 2 hrs. By the time we had disembarked, hiked the “Trail” and found our new departure gate, we had to wait less than an hour before boarding.  By this time, we had been awake for 6 hours, time to eat. We had a lovely panini at the airport which we didn’t have to take a mortgage out for, very reasonably priced.

We didn’t see the bikes being unloaded from our Ottawa flight or loaded onto the Tokyo flight. They did arrive safe and sound in Tokyo.

The flight to Tokyo was long 13.5 hrs, it never seemed to end. I tried to sleep but could only manage a few catnaps. Ralf binged watch Chicago Fire! I watched a great movie – “Can I Get a Witness”. Ralf and I will have to watch it together, it will be a great discussion after watching it together. There was a little bit of turbulence as we came into Tokyo and the cabin staff informed us that they would not be able to serve us the last food service.

Passport Control and Immigration was very efficient, people directing you all the way through. While waiting at the carousel, Ralf asked where the Over-sized baggage came in. The young lady indicated that they will bring them to us. We were both doubtful. Ralf usually goes to the oversized baggage area while I wait at the regular carousel. Within minutes of us waiting, the bikes boxes were delivered to us, there didn’t appear to be any additional damage to the bags. The pannier bag arrived shortly after, and we were heading out of the airport.

Before leaving the airport, Ralf got a SIM card for the phone, and we then got a taxi to our hotel. 

Our room is small, but manageable for the few nights we are here. The hotel has a Happy Hour between 5:30 to 6:30 with free beer.  We were too late to participate but we will partake before we leave this hotel. After a quick shower we headed out for something to eat. We are close to a shopping and restaurant district. We came back to the hotel and ate in the small restaurant at the hotel.

Back up to our room and Ralf fell asleep while I was getting ready for bed. We had been up for over 24 hours.