Thursday March 20, 2014

We left Port Campbell at 9:00 a lovely nights sleep once our neighbouring campers settled down and stopped talking.

There was an uphill grade going out of Port Campbell and we headed out on an undulating road towards the Twelve Apostles – the reputed sight to see along the Great Ocean Road.  Our Dutch neighbour at the campsite last night said that the area before the Twelve Apostles was actually more impressive.  The Loch Ard site was definitely better than the Twelve Apostles, it has a gorge, a cave and beautiful scenery.

While at Loch Ard we noticed a fire behind us.  Not sure what it was or where.  No reports on the news either

The Twelve Apostles although well renowned was very busy and in our opinion not as stunning as the other sites we have seen along this road.  The Twelve Apostles (actually about 6 now – due to the wave action that has knocked a few of them down).

All the tour buses stop here.  I hope they get to see Loch Ard as well, but we didn\’t see many buses there.

We were stopped many times to talk about our bikes, our trip etc.  So much so we left the Twelve Apostles at about 1:30 and still had 35 kms to do.  I chatted to a lovely French girl who was very interested in our trip and was amazed we were cycling the Great Ocean Road, she was even more amazed when I told her about the rest of the trip.  I indicated that you see so much more from a bicycle.  She asked if we had seen a Koala Bear.  Although I keep looking I still haven’t seen a koala bear.

The temperature was quite warm and I knew we had some hills to do.  Our campsite tonight was at Lavers Hill – there is that hill word again.

We met one other touring cyclist who was from Montreal, and saw one other coming down the hill from Lavers Hill with a big smile on his face.  He was going down hill and we were going up!!

After Princeton, the road headed inland and became quite hilly and with little shoulder.  The cars and campers generally gave us plenty of room even when we were going up some steep hills and windy roads.  This is an indication of our climbs today.  I didn’t have to get of the bike once.

Although it was hilly, (10-12% grades) still not as tough as the Coromandel or the hills in New Zealand.  Of course both of us are very fit and have our climbing legs.

As we were climbing up one hill we spotted a fella on the opposite side of the road with a wheel barrow and wearing rubber boots.  I asked where he was headed – Adelaide walking from Sidney to Adelaide in wellies?

We arrived at Lavers Hill to find a “Roadhouse” with basic camping facilities.  It does have a shower block but no kitchen.  We were trying to decide whether to stay here or go to the only Motel in Town.  Price difference $10.00 or $100.00.  The campsite won out.  It is incredibly quiet, the only thing I can hear is a cow mooing and some kind of bird.  Very peaceful and rural, we are the only ones here.  Ralf heard a Kookaburra as were getting ready for bed.

Wednesday March 19, 2014

We had a late start today, leaving the camp site at 9:00.  The ride took us along  a very pretty shared walking/cycling path for 3km.  I love these small communities that provide shared pathways along their beautiful coastline.

After the coastal pathway we followed a very quiet road and then headed in-land to Allansford where we stopped at the Cheese factory and museum and cheese tasting. We bought some nice cheese (Cheddar with black pepper and garlic).  We had lunch at the Cheese Museum and then headed out to join the Great Ocean Road at Nullaware.

Strange sights to see on this section of the road – a camel!  Alpacas for Melinda.

However, we didn’t see any sight of the sea until we got close to Peterborough (50kms into the day).  This section of the route was very rural and I was battered by bugs.  I could hear and feel them bounce of my helmet, shoulders, chest and glasses.  It was really annoying.  Then we made a right turn and saw the ocean and an incredible view of the coastline.

From them on and for the next 15 kms we were stopping every kilometre or so to view the absolutely stunning scenery in \”pull-outs\”.

Bay of Islands Quote on the Information Boards reads  \”There is a thin line between life and death for the plants and animals living here – caught between land and sea\”

Bay of Martyrs – \”By enjoying and caring about your natural and wild places, you can ensure they, and all that lives in them, will be here tomorrow\”

Although the quote asks us to look after the places we visit, unfortunately the sea is not that caring.  It is wearing away areas of this coastline with every wave.

The Grotto – the sea created a blow hole and now a cave eventually the roof of this cave will collapse and there will be more stone outcroppings.

London Bridge Has Fallen Down – just like in the nursery rhyme we used to sing as kids.  This used to have two arches.  I spoke to a lady who had been here when it did have two arches in the mid 80\’s.  The first arch collapsed in the early 1990\’s.

The Arch, (I didn\’t add a photo of the Arch, because I liked this one better), this area of the coastline reminded Ralf and I of a hand – Maybe it is a giant climbing the cliff.

All wonderful examples of the power of water.

Most of these areas had pull-outs big enough for cars and buses.  There were a few that had gravel roads into them.  A few had boardwalks, to keep you off the fragile coastline and flora and fauna.  all of them were within about 500 metres of the road.

We arrived in Port Campbell at about 4:30 one of our longest days, but not due to the distance, due to the scenery.  Tonight we are in Port Campbell a small seaside town.  We decided to eat out at the local pub – it was expensive but good. We are not going to be hearing the surf all night as we are surrounded by hills and about 1 km from the ocean.

Tuesday March 18, 2014

A very short riding day today because we wanted to spend more time in Port Fairy. We decided we didn’t need to get up early, as it was only a short day.  By the time we left the camp site it was 9:45 and by the time we left Port Fairy it was 11:15.

As we cycled up the and over the small hill behind the campsite we realize why we could hear the surf all night.

Griffiths Island has a Shearwater colony.  These birds travel over 10,000 kms through the Bering Sea between Alaska and Japan to breed here and then fly back to Alaska.  We had to go over a causeway to get to the Island and there were interpretative boards along the way.  It was well worth the visit to see the lighthouse and the surfers and the coast.

The route today was fairly flat until we got to Tower Hill which was an old volcano crater.  The scenery is becoming more picturesque the further we go along the coast line.  Tomorrow we actually join the Great Ocean Road.

We are staying in a very large campsite.  This is below the Maritime Village museum.

From this photo you would assume it would be rocking with surfers.  No, the average age is 900 years old!! Driving big SUVs and hauling caravans (camper trailers) the size of bungalows.

Ralf has gone to do some shopping in Town and I am doing the washing and writing the blog.

Monday March 17, 2014

What a lovely start to the day we were on the road by 8:00.  We had chosen a short cut, the name of the road we took is Mount Clay Road.  Mount Clay Road would take us on a diagonal trajectory to Princes Highway without having to deal with too much heavy traffic.  However, as the road was called Mount Clay Road I knew it would be a bit bumpy.  It was a lovely road, hilly yes, but newly paved and very manageable hills – even if one of them had an 11% grade to it.  The legs felt really good going up the hills and the route was very pretty too.  We re-joined the Princes Highway at 17 kms and carried on into Port Fairy.

We had a wonderful tail wind and for the most part the road was good with a good shoulder to ride on.  The cars and trucks are usually pretty good and give us plenty of room.

The great thing about riding a bike is that you spot things that you might otherwise miss if you are in a car.  This rusting tractor in the field.

Or, you can stop when you see things that are unusual or funny and take photos of these things.  Not sure of the significance of the shoe fence.

Use an old microwave for your mailbox – why not?

This old bridge still looks in good condition, but no road connects to it.

We did get some rain today, but by the time we got into Port Fairy the sun was out and we chose to set up the tent.  We have decided to ask if we can get a discount for being carbon neutral!!  It worked today at the camp site, although she had to put us down as a senior discount in the computer!!

The campsite was centrally located for the Town centre and also for the beachfront.  We could hear the roar of the surf as we were setting up the tent.

Port Fairy has over 50 heritage buildings, and a very good downtown with no vacant shops.

Most of the shops were little boutique type shops.  We had homemade ice-cream, but stopped at buying the homemade cookies.

The Anglican church was built in 1856 but didn’t get the steeple/tower finished until 1957.

This very austere building started its life as a Wesleyan (Methodist) Church, now it is a Uniting Church.  In Canada we refer to it as the United Church.

The camp kitchens in Australia are a little different to the ones we experienced in New Zealand.  In New Zealand all the kitchens were in their own building and some had pots and pans and crockery etc.  In Australia a lot of the kitchens consist of an open concept (3 walls) with a BBQ and picnic table and no pots and pans etc.  If we have the choice of campsites, as we did tonight we ask if the camp kitchen is enclosed or open.  It is getting a little cool at nights and it is nice to be in an enclosed kitchen.

After setting up the tent and having a lovely wander around the Town we had an early dinner.  We thought we might be able to update the blog and the photos, but we were joined by a very nice mother and daughter who we chatted to until 8:00 and then another couple joined us and we chatted to them until 9:00.  A late night for us 9:30 pm.

Sunday March 16, 2014

We did get an early start today.  As we were loading panniers on to the bikes it started to rain.  The forecast was for showers, we carried on.  We left Mount Gambier at 8:15 in a light shower.  Unfortunately for us the heavens opened and we were cold and wet for the first 40 kms.

We crossed into the State of Victoria at the 17.5 kms mark.  It was still raining.

It stopped raining as we came towards Dartmoor. I told Ralf about the tree carvings in Dartmoor but we decided because we were cold to by-pass them.  However, as luck would have it Ralf noticed the sign for the public toilets and we diverted into the Village.  It was well worth the stop.  As Ralf was taking the photos a little old lady came out of one of the cottages and gave him two brochures telling us about the Village and the carvings.  The Memorial Streetscape was created from nine trees that had been identified as dangerous.  The trees had originally been planted in September 1918 to commemorate WW 1.

The Nurse – Nurses were beacons of hope and comfort

Sad News – Telegrams notifying deaths were sent to local clergymen so they could break the news

At Arms – Australian soliders were respected for their courage

The Boy at War – it was common for young men – boys- to lie about their age

Three Services – Men from the local area served in all 3 services

Over the Top – A digger climbing the trench

Rest in Peace

The Parting – some men were \’farewelled\’ by a wife and children – others were held by the their parents

The Game – “Two Up” The phrase “The Game” was also the Soldier’s euphemism for The War and just as luck determined a win at “Two Up” so did it often determine survival on the battlefield.

We were going to stop at Winnap where there was supposed to be a campsite.  Apparently the campsite has been closed for 10 years, it is still showing on the maps. No campsite to be seen but we had already decided to carry on to Heywood, as it is a bigger town and we would have a couple of choices for camping or motel.

We chose to stay in a cabin tonight.  It has everything and we have decided that this is all we will need when we have finished the Grand Adventure, maybe a bigger bathroom.

Saturday March 15, 2014

We woke early to rain pouring down on the steel roof.  We had planned an early start, but after checking the weather forecast we realized that it was going to rain all day.  At 8:00 a.m. we called our host and asked if we could stay an extra day.

Although we are not made of sugar, we really didn’t want to be wet all day.  Sandy very generously said we could stay an extra night.

I spent a couple of hours updating the blog and Ralf worked on his photos.  I then found a book to read, what luxury a day spent reading.  It was a really interesting book.  Mao’s Last Dancer by Li Cunxin.

Friday March 14, 2014

A lovely rest day today.   We decided to cycle to Blue Lake and around the Town, Ralf estimated to see all the sites we would be cycling about 15 kms.  He was pretty close with his estimate.  We removed all the panniers and had a nice ride.

Blue Lake, Leg of Mutton Lake and Valley Lake were lakes all created by volcanoes.

Leg of Mutton Lake was planted with eucalyptus from all areas of Australia, European hardwoods and North American pine species.  With falling water table levels over the last century, the original lake has disappeared.  As you can see by Ralf\’s photo the colours are changing, it is going into the autumn season here.

Blue Lake has a strange phenomenon, in the winter it is gray and in a few days in November it changes to an incredible turquoise blue.  During March it gradually changes back to grey.  Fortunately for us it is still a stunning blue with a tinge of turquoise around the edges.

There is a very scientific explanation why it turns blue in the summer, in a nutshell it is because the calcite and humic substances which are present in the water fall to the floor of the lake.  During the summer, the surface waters have the humic substances removed and hence the natural blue colour of the water is more evident.

We met a nice couple who were on a belated honeymoon. His description of the lake was \”It looks like a giant plug hole in the Art Department sink, it leaves a blue bit with turquoise around the edges\”.

We also went to the second major sinkhole in the area.  This garden was created in 1884 by the then owner James Umpherston, it fell into disrepair but was restored by the Woods and Forests Social Club.

New plantings provided a mix of native and exotic species.  Umpherston’s original vision of the sinkhole as an attractive and popular recreational area was once more a reality.  The City of Mount Gambier obtained the site in 1994 and is responsible for all maintenance.

There were signs warning of bee activity.  This was one of four hives that Ralf got a photo of.  This one is the size of a basketball.

Both bikes got cleaned today as well, although it is forecast for rain tomorrow.

Mount Gambier is a really nice City, but needs more bike lanes!

Thursday March 13, 2014

A relatively short day today because of our longer ride yesterday.  The scenery in South Australia is not as stunning as New Zealand however, I realized that we still need to take photos of our day and the scenery we are seeing so that you can see it too. When we stop for some electrolyte or something to snack on which is about once an hour, I will take a photo.

Ralf and I were trying to decide which came first the wooden structure or the brick structure.

At 24 kms we stopped just before this hill.

Today\’s route was very gentle rolling hills, no major climbs until we came to our warm showers house which was once again up a hill.  This time there was no “hill” in the name so no indication that there would be climb at the end of our ride.  If Sandy has been reading these blogs I am sure he is laughing.  Sandy is our host or at least he would be if he was here!  This is another situation where the host has trusted us with his house while he is away.  A neighbour is keeping an eye on the house while he is away and we were given the key and told to make ourselves comfortable. Sandy has also invited us to stay with him when we get to Anglesea. Incredibly generous.

We arrived at about 11:00, and settled in, then we went for a walk downtown to see some of the historic buildings and to get some provisions for the next few days. As we passed the catholic church and convent we noticed the door was open.

We went inside and there was a school group doing a project.  The Father came out to talk to us and was a really nice guy.  I told him about Scott joining the priesthood.  His comment was “Good on him, we need all the priests we can get”.

We also visited the first of the sink-holes which is in the centre of the downtown.  Early settlers settled around this area to access the ample supply of fresh water.

Not sure how deep this one is, the sinkholes are formed when the roof of a cave weakens and collapses in or falls to the bottom of the cave.

The City of Mt Gambier has a myriad of caves below the City.

Wednesday March 12, 2014

We were up early to get on the road by 8:00 am and as usual it didn’t quite work out that way.  We both got chatting to other campers and got away by 8:40.  However, we have been invited to stay with a couple (Gay and Ron) when we go through their Town (Lara) near Geelong.

Today’s plan was to stop in Beachport for lunch and to pick up some provisions and then camp at Southend.  We did stop in Beachport for lunch which has a jetty that is over 770 metres long it was completed in 1882. Beachport has a very active rock lobster fishing industry.

We also chatted to two older couples about our ride, they had seen us cycling in Kingston.

When we were in Kingston the campground owner told us about the Woakwine cutting and that we should make the detour to see it.  Apparently a farmer wanted to drain a swamp area on his land and dug a cutting to allow it to drain.  Of course it also redirected fresh water to the ocean and damaged the Coorong resulting in the die-off of seaweed, which now deposits on all the pristine beaches.  When we were chatting to this fella about it, we thought it had happened recently, but it was ‘cut’ in 1957.

We came across the area today and were undecided whether to cycle up the hill to see the ‘cut’.  Both of us are glad we did, it is unbelievable.

The work was undertaken by two men Mr. McCourt and an employee.  It took them three years to complete using a caterpillar 7 tractor, a 7 ton drain ripper. Letourneau 8-11 yard scraper and explosives.  The cutting is 1 km in length and 28-34 metres at its deepest point it entailed the removal of 276,000 cubic metres of material.  Ralf cycled down the gravel road to view the land that had been drained.

When we got to the turn-off at Southend we checked on the map to see how far it was to Millicent and how far to the camp-site in Southend.  Millicent was another 20 kms away and the campsite was 8kms.  We were both feeling good, the weather was comfortable so we decided to carry-on to Millicent.

Today\’s route was nice, a mix of farming and coast line.  We also saw 2 more emu, they spotted us and took of in the opposite direction.

Millicent is a fair size Town with a Kimberley-Clark paper mill.  The Town seemed very quiet and when we stopped for a drink in the pub, the bar person said there had been two paper mills but one was closed down.  The paper mill and farming were the two biggest employers in the area.  Quiet a few of the stores were empty.

The camp-ground was a nice small site with a good camp kitchen.

Tuesday March 11, 2014

A short ride today.  We got started a little after 8:15 as we had a couple of rain-showers and were chatting to other people in the camp kitchen.

The route today was varied with a south-westerly wind.  We cycled the 5 km cycle path out of Kingston and then onto the B101.  The first part was typical scenery of bushland and pastoral land, grazing beef and sheep.  We then passed a managed forestry area about 10 kms of straight rows of pine trees.  We actually had some hills to go up today !! Mount Benson – on our Garmin\’s we had an elevation of 30 metres. No I haven’t missed a zero!

We arrived in Robe at about 11:30 settled into the camp site and headed into the historic downtown of Robe, along a shoreline path.

Robe is similar to Kingston a coastal Town.  Robe is more compact as most of its historic buildings are centred around the Bay.  The historic buildings all have historic plaques telling you the history of the building.  Kingston did not have the historic plaques. It is helpful to have the plaques on the buildings.

The shoreline near Robe is very rugged and was the cause of many shipwrecks.