I have decided to add the UK and Ireland as one post.

Thoughts on England

Where do I start with my comments on England, without offending people.

First I must apologize to my English relatives, but for the most part we didn’t like England.  Customer service was almost non-existent, the people were not very friendly whether we were in a tourist area or not, English drivers were the worst to date.

Fellow cyclists did not acknowledge us on the road, we are used to a little wave or a nod of the head, but in England we were virtually invisible.  The only other touring cyclists that stopped to compare notes were other foreigners.

We found as we went further north the people were friendlier, but the customer service didn’t improve.  We know we were spoilt in NZ and somewhat in Australia for campsites and the facilities but the fees that are being charged for the campsites are ridiculous.  When asked why there were not more facilities available, like a picnic table, we were told it would be vandalized or smaller items would be stolen.

The best campsite we stayed at was the one at Stonehenge – it had all the facilities, camp kitchen, with kettle, toaster, microwave etc (nothing was vandalized) and we paid less because we were on bikes and a small tent.

We knew England was going to be expensive, but most of our budget was spent on campsites, not food, we were able to get good deals at the supermarkets.

The staff at the Tourist Information Centres were not enthusiastic about their areas.  We found most people did not go the extra mile, because of the “jobs worth” attitude.  This means I can’t do that it is not in my job description.

The car drivers were impatient and Ralf said that the English drivers were the most likely to break the posted speed limits.  The trades-people driving vans in particular white vans were the absolute worst drivers.

To finish on a positive note the history of the country and the architecture is stunning, the scenery in England is beautiful, there is still so much green-space.  I think that is why most of the people are miserable, they are crammed into grey, over-populated, dreary Towns and don’t get out into the countryside to breathe the fresh air.  Warning Canada, do not go crazy with the infilling. In the Towns there was always a lot of garbage, however, in the countryside we didn’t see a lot of garbage in the hedgerows.  Although I must admit the hedgerows are great for wildlife, when you are on a bicycle they become a hazard.  There is the road and then the hedgerow, no shoulder at all and very little visibility. Finally, it is still the only country that serves a decent pint (Ralf says).

Thoughts on Scotland

As we cycled into Scotland the locals were a little friendlier.  Camp sites were expensive, we often had to pay for showers and power.  The best campsite was at Blair Atholl, the castle, but we still didn’t get a picnic table.  The customer service was a little better, although often there was no one manning the reception area at a campsite and we had to phone and wait for someone to show up.  One Scot told us if we can figure out a way to charge you for the air we would do.  The scenery however, was stunning, mountains, rolling hills, glens, lochs absolutely beautiful.

What is on the mind of most Scots at the moment is the upcoming referendum, whether to separate from England or not.  The vote is in September and should be interesting.  In my opinion if you think you should to separate because you believe you are different from England and you can manage your finances without assistance from any other country go ahead separate.  However, if you still want an English army to assist you, your currency to be linked to the English pound, the English health care system, and the English pension, then you can hardly call yourself an independent country.  The Scots are being told they will have automatic entrance into the EU.  That is not the case they will have to apply as a new country and not have automatic entrance.  Mark Carney (Head of the Bank of England) has said that their currency will not be linked to the English currency as England does not want to have to bail out Scotland like the EU has been bailing out failing economies like Greece, Ireland and Spain etc.

Scotland currently has its own parliament and can pass its own laws.  It has a certain amount of independence will it survive on its own merits is another question.  One Scot said “We have tourism and whisky, we can survive”.  Dear god, what a mentality.  The first things that goes by the wayside in a recession is disposable income, people don’t travel or buy expensive whisky.  Sorry Scotland stick with England, use it for all its worth.

Thoughts on Northern Ireland

We loved Northern Ireland.  The people were so friendly, everyone greeted us with a nod of the head or a cheery good morning. The car drivers were patient and gave us plenty of room, overtaking when it was safe to do so.  People took a great deal of pride in their communities, flowers, gardens, and clean streets.  The cycle routes were well signed and so were all the touristy places.  Northern Ireland communities wanted you to find them and explore them and they welcomed you with open arms and a friendly greeting.  The Tourist Information offices were really helpful.

Belfast was a different story, we arrived at the wrong time “July 12 – Orange Day parades” and I felt uncomfortable. The streets were littered with broken glass and drunken yobs.  The majority of the businesses were shuttered.

Regardless of the Irish politics and if the weather wasn’t so wet and cool we could see ourselves living in Northern Ireland.

Although we were only there for a short time, we left feeling good about Northern Ireland.

Thoughts on Ireland

We were a little bit disappointed in Ireland.  We apparently went down the wrong coastline – MMBA.  We should have gone to the west of Ireland.  It was difficult to find campsites, they were expensive and few and far between on the east coast.  Although the best campsite was in Wexford – providing everything the touring cyclist or backpacker needs – kitchen, fridge/freezer, common room, although we did have to pay for showers.  The most expensive campsite was also in Ireland – providing nothing and charging for showers.

The people were not as friendly as we were expecting and the car drivers were a little more impatient.

Dublin was great, lots of life and friendly people.  The Guinness tasted wonderful.

Friday August 1, 2014

Bonjour, we are in France.

We arrived in France at 1:45pm local time (one hour ahead of British Summer Time) and proceeded to the Information Tourisme.  They were very helpful with directing us to the campsite.  I also found about a cycle route called Cycling in La Manche and asked if they had the guide book for this 434 km route.  She gave me the guide book that includes maps, with sites to see and campsites and it was free – Sustrans eat your heart out.  We have decided to take this route to Mont Saint Michel.  We go via the Normandy beaches and then down through Carental, Saint Lo, Vire and to Mont Saint Michel.  Hope to get internet and a phone by Monday.  The lady in the Tourist Office directed us to the closest campsite in Tourlaville, cycle path all the way she said.  We passed this \”thing\” it was near the port area, but we had no idea what it is, it looked very interesting – sculpture? something for a big boat?

This is the first country that we have visited in 8 months of travelling that we do not understand the language.  I am already putting my appalling French to the test.  Le chat est sur le mur or la chien est sou la table.  Why I remember these two phrases from school I have no idea, perhaps they will stand me in good stead if someone needs to know their cat is on the wall or their dog is under the table, but somehow I do not think these two phrases will find me a camp site.

I purchased a French phrase book on the ferry crossing, hopefully that will help.  I know most people would have some kind of app on the phone where they speak into and it translates for them, but I prefer bumbling along and having a laugh with whoever I am trying to speak to.  We asked two young girls if they could direct us to the camping site, “konpeeng” she said “oui” said I.  Then they discussed in French how to say it is behind the swimming pool.  I picked up the words derrier and piscine, we were off to the races and we eventually found the swimming pool, but couldn’t find the campsite.  I then went into the swimming pool with my phrasebook and again, the older women assisted me – we were literally within 10 metres of the site.

The campsite is a small basic campsite, with clean toilets and showers, there is a power outlet for each site and a water tap.  We do not need much more than that although it would be nice to have a picnic table. The cost is EU18.10 , why the 10cents I do not know.   Each site is separated by a hedge so that you can have some privacy, everyone was very friendly and greeted us with a bonjour.

Our \”neighbour\” was a very hairy, very tall man.  Things to remember to ask the guy at the camping store, how long is the tent!

Ralf has gone shopping, that should be fun.  I have written a list for him in English and French so hopefully he will be able to buy something for dinner.  We have to remember that most shops close between 12:00 and 2:00 daily and are not open on Sundays.

One of the things I was concerned about while travelling through Europe was the 90 day limit for the Schengen countries.  This means that we are only allowed to be in the countries that have signed the Schengen Agreement for a total of 90 days, not 90 days per country but 90 days for all the countries in the Agreement.  There are a number of ways around this problem:

• Overstay the 90 days and possibly get fined when leaving
• Try and get an extension on the allowable time
• Arrive in a country that doesn’t check passports
• Travel from a country that does check passports to a country that doesn’t
• Travel with a person that has a European passport.

We arrived in England on Canadian passports and were given a 6 month tourist visa (England did not sign the Schengen Agreement).  We left England and arrived in France, I had my renewed British passport, we cycled to passport control.  The Border police asked if we were British I said yes Ralf said Canadian, he waved us both through, couldn’t be bothered.  This means Ralf does not have an entry stamp in his passport for the first of the Schengen countries.  The next country we arrive in (Spain) (if they ask) will ask when we arrived in France, we will lie to them and tell them a few days earlier.  Which means the amount of days we are allowed in the Schengen countries will start in Spain one month from now. Hopefully we can get through more of the Schengen countries before anyone notices we are here.

Ralf is back with pasta in a can!  We had enough money left on today\’s budget for a couple of beers.  Mmmm pasta in a can and a biere.

Thursday July 31, 2014

We had a good nights sleep in our tent, unfortunately the condensation problem has not been fixed and we are still getting dripped on in the mornings.  Next rest day we will get some Nik Wax waterproofing and soak the inside of the tent.

We left the campsite early at 8:15, the earliest we have been on the road for a while, the sun was out and it felt good to be on the bikes.  Todays route was rolling hills, although it felt very much downhill.  The uphills were followed by great swooping downhills.  The first road we took was a fairly quiet B Road but we had to join the A338 which was horrendous.  The car drivers in England do not give us much room and are very impatient.  We found a C road to follow for a while and in Fordinbridge we found the B3078 to Wimborne Minster which was a lovely ride, and then back on the A349  to Poole.

We headed straight for the ferry port which was really well signed, although a very convoluted way of getting to it.  We bought our tickets for tomorrow’s crossing and headed back into Poole to the Tourist Information to find accommodation for tonight.

We were told about a campsite 3 miles (5kms) outside of Poole it was advertised from 7.50.  Please note the “from”.  When we got to the campsite which was 7.5 kms outside of Poole we were told the fee was 25.00 pounds.  That is 7.50 each and 10.00 for the pitch if we wanted power that would be an extra 6.00.  $50.00 to park our little tent, crazy.  Last nights campsite with kitchen and all of its facilities was only 14.oo pound – does not make any sense to me at all.

I was so mad at the “false” advertising I said no we wouldn’t pay it.  We cycled back into the Tourist Information office – which then made our total mileage for the day to 92.5 kms.  We booked into a hotel that charged 25 pound per person.  I know that sounds as if I was cutting my nose of to spite my face, but at least we are only 15 minutes from the ferry, we have a good hot shower and a bed.

A Registry Office in England is used for weddings.  This old building was the registry office in Poole, the stairs make a great photo opportunity for the wedding party.

We have to get back on budget in France which may mean we will be wild camping in some areas.

Wednesday July 30, 2014

Not such an early start this morning although we were up early. John was working today so we got up to say our goodbyes to him. We had a good breakfast and loaded the bikes.  We then got around to saying goodbye to Joy.  It was tough, we had such a good day together yesterday, I didn’t want to leave her.  But, we gave each other big hugs and said our farewells. (Check back on Sherston\’s page to see the photo of the fringe).

We had a great cycling day to day.  The weather was hot (25 degrees) and sunny.   We stopped in Devizes to take photos of the locks – the ‘rise’ from the bottom of the lock to the top of the 29 locks  is 237 feet in 2 miles (72 m in 3.2 km) or a 1 in 44 gradient. Renting steel narrow boats for a vacation is another great way of seeing England.  Very slow and relaxing, apart from when you have to go through locks. You also tend to go from pub to pub, mooring up at lunchtime and then again in the evening next to a pub.

We were going to stop in Devizes for lunch, but I missed the supermarket turn and before I knew it we were heading out of Town.  We carried on to the next Town that had a convenience store.  As we were heading through the village, military aircraft were flying noisily across the sky.  Ralf looked at the map and mentioned that we were close to Salisbury Plain.  My military historian couldn’t recall why he knew of Salisbury Plain.  I told him that it was used for military manouvres.  Probably why the aircraft were flying around.

Shortly after we noticed our first road sign warning us of tanks crossing, I pointed to Ralf the red flags the ranges were being used.  We didn’t hear any tank fire or see any tanks.

This road side sign told us about the four highwaymen who attacked and robbed Mr. Dean.  They were transported (to Australia) for their crimes, I wonder if their families are still there and enjoying life.

We then headed to Stonehenge, I remembered there was a road north of Stonehenge, that we would be able to see the monument without having to pay to go through the visitor centre.  Unfortunately English Heritage, knew about this road as well and have used it for their new visitors centre.

Instead of a free view, you pay 15 pounds per person.  We cycled along the road and then took a dirt lane and still saw the monument.  We talked to a family from India who were very interested in our trip.  They wanted to take our photos, we asked them to take photos for us as we don\’t often get photos of the two of us together.

We then took a very busy road, to our campsite.  The campsite is lovely – a fully equipped camp kitchen (first one since NZ/Australia), good showers, clean toilets and very friendly staff and fellow campers.  We met a fella who has also sold everything and wants to start a new life in Europe.  Although they bought a camper van and plan to buy a gite in France.

We decided to walk to the pub for dinner.  Ralf had forgotten to bring his camera but took these photos on his phone instead.

Mia Farrow look?

Tuesday July 29, 2014

Lessons to live by:

• Do not allow your sister to cut your fringe (bangs).
• Do not allow your sister to encourage you to cut your own fringe.
• Do not allow your sister to encourage your husband to cut your fringe.
• Do not use kitchen scissor to cut your fringe.
• Regardless of how bad your hair looks or how badly your fringe is driving you crazy, do not cut it yourself.

Thank goodness I wear a helmet all day, and my hair grows quickly.

Joy came home from the hospital yesterday after her last session of chemotherapy.  The next plan is for her to build up her strength and they will operate mid-September.  Things are finally looking up for her.  We spent a couple of hours chatting to her last night. We decided to ask if we could spend another day here, so that I could spend some time with Joy today.

Joy is feeling good today after her chemo, but I asked her to go to bed for a mid-afternoon nap.  We had a good chat this morning and we will have a good chat tonight before we all have an early night.  It is good to see her looking well and she has even put on some weight, not a lot, but some.

Joy supervised Ralf and I making a paella today.  I assisted in the prep and Ralf did the cooking.  It tasted lovely and we had a lovely meal together.  Good times spent together.

We will set off early tomorrow morning.

Saturday, Sunday and Monday July 26  – 28, 2014

Three rest days at Joy and John’s.  A busy time but rather boring to read about.  Cleaning the tent, fly and panniers.  Resealing the seams on the tent and waterproofing everything we can.

Ralf had cracked a filling so was able to get it fixed while we were here as well.

Joy came home from the hospital late Monday afternoon.  I made dinner for everyone and we had an early night.

Repacked and ready to carry on.

Friday July 24, 2014

Bridgwater to Bath (Driving)

After a quick breakfast and coffee we headed to the bike shop.  SJS Cycles build touring bikes and are well renowned in England.  It took them about an hour to switch Ralf’s wheels and put new tires etc on them.  He now has sealed bearings and wheels that are exactly the same as mine, but bigger 700cc’s.

We drove to Bath following the A362 it was a direct route, rather than following the M5 and down into Bath.  It was a typical scenic route, narrow roads and through a lot of small villages, it took us about an hour longer to get to Bath than if we had followed the SatNav directions.  Although the SatNav gave us some very funny directions for example “Stay on this road …. for a long time”.

We drove into Bath to get some Techwash and tent waterproofing.  While we are staying at Joy and John’s we will clean everything and reproof it all ready for the next leg of the Grand Adventure – Europe.

After we handed the vehicle back we cycled up to the hospital to see Joy.  Bath is a beautiful City in a valley, which means that have every road is uphill.  The hill to the hospital was brutal, turned a corner and kicked up to 12%.  We visited with Joy for about half an hour then headed out to their house in Sherston a small village in Wiltshire.

Joy was waiting to have the stent replaced, she had not eaten since 6:00 the previous evening and was hungry and thirsty.  She told us we have hill to climb to get to their house.  We had two more big hills 18% and 14%, (walked them) and then rolling hills.  About 10 kms away from their house the clouds rolled in and it started to rain, a heavy shower but by the time we got to the village we were dry.  John informed us that there was a rail trail we could have taken which would have only had us negotiating one hill.

John made us pasta for dinner and we had an early night.

Thursday July 24, 2014

A short bike ride down the hill to the ferry and a short wait and we were on the ferry heading for Wales.

A really smooth ferry crossing, Ralf took photos while I prepared the photos for the blog.

We could have walked to Wales.

When the ferry docked, we were ready to follow the motor bikes of the ship, when one of the dock-workers called us over.  He directed us to a side door, and we joined the foot passengers of the ship.  Much quicker and safer than driving of the ship with the cars and motorbikes.

Arriving in England we needed some English pounds, but there was no ATM.  We couldn’t buy train tickets and we were hoping that we could take the bikes on the train without any problems.  Both of us were horrified when a family of four showed up with their touring bikes loaded and a BOB trailer.  Fortunately for us they were going on the ferry to Ireland.  When the train arrived we were the only two bikes and we removed the panniers and secured them in the bike area.

We had arranged to pick up a van in Cardiff at 4:00 pm, the train had to be rerouted and was going to be late, only by half an hour which actually turned out to be 45 minutes.  We quickly found the car hire place and were on our way to Bridgwater without incident.

We had stayed in Bridgwater when we cycled LeJog.  We knew where there was a place where we could park the van and sleep in the van it was a quiet and secluded place.  We set up our sleeping mats in the van and slept soundly (or at least I did).  Ralf slept with one eye open.